Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
